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Game Play

Well you've paid your entry fee of whatever you came in for? That in its self can determine how you will play, even before the tournament has started, before you've even seen your first cards. Theirs a big difference between a 5 dollar entry fee and a 100 dollar one. You are more likely to play more loose at the start of a 5 dollar tourney , than the 100 dollar one , because if the tournament has a rebuy period on the first hour , you are more likely to rebuy more on the 5 dollar one , than pay dearly to rebuy a 100 dollar tournament . The difference in the 100 dollar game is that players will take advantage and play aggressive against you than the 5 dollar one. So you've got to get your emotions under check at the start and not to let players or entry fees, determine how you play your natural game. After all it took a while for you to gain enough experience to get to the position you are in now, and to have the confidence to enter what ever the entry fee is? Hasn’t it?

Even so when it’s a 100 dollar tourney no matter how many times you have played, or how many years of experience behind you, you may have? It’s still going to be daunting and affect your natural game. Because out their are all kinds of walls against you? Luck, good players, bad players, bluffers, loose and tight players, antes and blinds and time its self. For the next 3 to 4hrs however long its going to take, you've got to be ready for everything thrown at you.

As with any start to a tourney no matter what the buying fee, the first 10 mins are crucial. And in the very first hour, players are going to be very loose and likely to go all-in at any chance they get. If you are in an early position say, 1st seat after the big blind and 1st too act and the blinds are 20 raising every 10 to 15 mins, any time you are the first three seats after the big blind you need a decent hand or pair. I'D need a AK, AA, KK, AQ, or good low pair if I’m the first to act, because for sure a player with anything half decent will go ALLIN ON the rebuy hour, so I would rebuy myself from the start to get me up too 3000 in chips at least then if someone pushes himself all-in on 1500 and I do lose then I’ve still got chips. Don’t be taken in that the same player will still play like the after the rebuy period? He wont that’s for sure, he'll change gears straight after and so must you! Your aim is to build up your chip stack while watching how other players react in certain positions against you and other players. Soon you might be moved to another table that can happen at anytime, the quicker you adjust the better.

You have to play tight in the early stages on the low blinds unless you start getting good hands or good positions on players. You’re trying building up your sack ready for when the blinds are 100 or more, getting ready for the final table, that way chip management comes in and you can put in good expensive raises which will stop the loose and novice player out drawing you on the flop, turn, and river. Mix up your play and keep players guessing on what you have? Keep your bets steady e.g. 130 each bet to the river or more depending on how the flop plays for you. It’s all about your choices on how you manage your chip stack? With what value of starting hand you are dealt with and how many chips you’re prepared to call or bet with? What I mean is, you may go all in before the flop and count on your good starting hand to win the pot? Or after the flop and rely that the turn or river will improve your hand rather than his? But once your all in and lose the pot that’s it your done. The pot owns both players chips until it’s decided who wins not you or the other player. Even on a steady high betting hand most players will call a steady 240 to 360 if they have a decent hand, trying to double up while low stacked then, throw the rest of his/her chips in, on the turn or river hoping to put pressure on the other player to fold, instead of calling another 240 to 360 thinking if they lose they’d be even more low stacked. But instead they go all in and risk losing everything. What chance do they have of coming back in the game if their out? Yes they lost calling a steady 240 to 360 bet and got out drawn and ended even more low stacked? But a least their still “IN " Ready to fight back and Not out of the game all together? So control your self when you go" all-in"

You can have AK doesn’t mean it will flop, or you might be against a good pair. Play the small pairs with caution in the early seats, unless you’re sure you have a chance of catching a set. Watch out for the blinds and antes as they increase in value, you can’t sit and wait for the big hands to come. When your are not on the small and big blinds you can fold much better , than on the blinds its self when a player is trying to raise the blinds to steal a pot of value , when the blinds and antes are high . And If You’re going to get lucky? Take advantage of rushes [wining streaks] when they come. Sometimes if you get crappy cards folding on the flop can help the next set of play, if you check rather than fold again, can give players your slow playing a good hand? Yet you have a moderate one and trying to draw a good hand instead, which can block a good raise? Depend on your instincts and you'll do fine. If you do get to the final table? However you get their, through luck on the river or good play well done! But the final table play is another story; look at my assessment on the final table tab. But if you don’t make it to the money or the final table the experience alone you have gained is worth a lot more and you will look back for sure on the mistakes you and other players have made and had. An internet player can get more years of experience in a shorter time than a real card player because he’s dealt more hands by the electronic dealer than a human one. If you can adjust to being moved around and don’t get scared of high raises , blind increases , as well as playing high blinds and adjusting quickly to the short game on the final table as players are eliminated , your half way their !!

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